Mykonos: Shaped by the Sea
Before the arrival of beach clubs and fine art galleries, Mykonos was an island in tune with the sea. Wander slowly through Chora and the past is revealed in its windmills, bakeries and weathered waterfront chapels – lasting monuments to a forgotten era. Sailing on EXPLORA II, Joe Mortimer ventured along a lesser travelled path through this iconic, historic island, unearthing hidden gems that often get lost in the crowds Explora Journeys seeks to avoid.
There’s an old proverb in Mykonos that roughly translates as: “Woe betide he who doesn’t take his loaf of bread with him.” On an island whose history was shaped by ocean travel, it served as practical wisdom for generations of sailors and a reminder that every successful voyage begins long before the ship leaves harbour.
Years before Jackie Kennedy proclaimed her love for Mykonos in the early 1960s — helping along a transformation that would bring private jets swarming into Mykonos Airport and superyachts jostling for space in the Old Port — Mykonos Town (Chora) was a bustling harbour with a long legacy of seafaring.
Aboard a luxury Mediterannean cruise with Explora Journeys, avoid the crowds with earlier arrivals and later departures and wander the streets during the stillness of early morning, catching a glimpse of the island that existed before. From the iconic windmills built during Venetian rule to the merchant houses of Little Venice and the ancient bakeries that made months-long voyages possible, the tale of this Mykonos itinerary is hidden in plain sight; forever entwined with the ocean.
Early Morning
Start slowly after a leisurely breakfast on board and savour the silence. From the Old Port, a coastal path arcs past a strip of pale sand and the twinkling Aegean in the Bay of Chora. At this time of day, only a few locals stroll the harbourside promenade at Akti Kampani, where seafood tavernas line the waterfront and solitary fishermen cast into the crystal-clear water.
For historical context, call in at the red-roofed Agia Anna Church, halfway down the promenade, to admire the icons and elaborate altar dedicated to Saint Anne; patron saint of mothers, grandmothers and families. At the far end of the promenade, pay your respects at the blue-domed Holy Church of Agios Nikolaos of Kadena, built on the waterfront to honour Saint Nicholas, patron saint of sailors, fishermen and ocean travellers.
Together, these two unassuming little sea-facing chapels tell the story of the island in three distinct chapters: the men who went to sea to seek their fortune; the women who stayed behind to bake bread and raise families; and the Aegean itself, always present – the lifeblood of the island.
Around the headland in the Kastro district, you’ll find the ruins of Mykonos Castle and the dazzling white of Panagia Paraportiani church next door; literally ‘Our Lady of the Side Gate’. The startling contrast of pure Cycladic white against cloudless Mediterranean blue makes it an iconic photo stop. But its original role was notably more functional — providing sanctuary for townsfolk when the island came under attack from pirates. Which, as a prosperous commercial hub in the heart of the Aegean, was a persistent threat.
The path here turns away from the coast, threading through a warren of alleyways designed in a chaotic jumble to shield from fierce ocean breezes and disorientate marauding invaders. Little side streets reveal flashes of the Aegean and courtyard cafes draped in blazing bougainvillea, before you emerge onto the waterfront in Little Venice.
Named for the Venetian merchant houses and the colourful balconies that hang precariously over the azure water – for easy exchange of smuggled goods, according to local legend – it’s an idyllic spot where waves crash into the low promenade and waterfront bars teeter on the edge of the sea; an easy spot to linger over a coffee or just to take a moment and soak it all in.
From Little Venice, it’s a five-minute walk up to the Kato Mili windmills; six silent sentinels standing atop the hill. From the 16th century onwards, windmills became the economic engines of Mykonos. The recipe was simple: ships brought grain from neighbouring Cycladic islands to Mykonos port. From there, it was transported to one of the island’s 28 windmills — powered by the strong, ‘Meltemi’ gales that give Mykonos its nickname, ‘Island of the Winds’ — and turned into flour.
Flour was sent to dozens of bakeries, where it was transformed into durable, dehydrated barley rusks (paximadia) designed to endure the harsh climatic conditions of life at sea. The bakeries did a brisk trade provisioning merchant ships, fishermen and passing vessels with enough food to sustain prolonged ocean voyages. This was the proverbial loaf every sailor was expected to carry.
Mid Morning
If you wander back into Chora via Agiou Efthimiou, the aroma of fresh bread and coffee might tempt you to descend a few stone steps into Gioras, one of Mykonos’ oldest wood-fired bakeries. First built from stone, mud and hay in 1420, the ancient building is centred around the original brick oven where daily routine would have once unfolded, conducted by generations of Mykonos women who fuelled the island’s maritime economy.
The elegant owner, Cloe Papaioannou, offers a warm welcome from her throne behind the till, while her husband, George Vamvakouris, restocks display cases laden with golden goods: feta cheese phyllo pastries, sticky baklava and syrup-drenched kataifi nests, which should all find their way onto your plate.
By 11:00am, Chora is beginning to get busy — the luxury boutiques, homegrown brands, art galleries and intimate cafes of the central Matoyianni Street are already doing a brisk business — so instinct might take you off the beaten path, as Explora Journeys intends. Let curiosity lead you down narrow side streets and up the breezy slopes on the eastern side of town. Quieter than the bustling scenes below, the narrow lanes and steep staircases are even more charming, with cascades of vibrant greenery and hot-pink bougainvillea draped over stark white walls, cats drowsing in doorways and strings of Greek flags fluttering in the breeze.
Slightly further uphill, at the foot of the beautifully restored Boni’s Windmill, the Mykonos Agricultural Museum – one of the true hidden gems in Mykonos - reveals another forgotten chapter of Mykonian history. Set within the remains of a traditional farmstead, the open-air museum faithfully recreates scenes of daily life in the 16th century, with livestock enclosures, a communal brick oven, freshwater well and a grape-stomping tub and wine press.
At its centre is the thatch-roofed windmill, where a narrow staircase leads up to the mechanical heart, built from ancient timbers that groan in the wind. Take a moment to enjoy the view from the garden: the white cubes of Chora tumbling towards the harbour, contrasted with the deep cobalt of the Aegean and there, in the distance, EXPLORA II, docked in the New Port on the other side of the bay.
Late Afternoon
The intertwined story of seafaring heritage and unsung women continues at Lena’s House. The 19th-century home-turned-museum is something of an anachronism, flanked by the Champagne bars, real estate firms and luxury boutiques bearing names like Louis Vuitton, Chopard and Audemars Piguet in the Tria Pigadia (Three Wells) part of Chora.
The exterior is rendered in the same brilliant white limewash that characterises the island, but beyond the front door lies another world. Formerly the home of Lena Skrivanou, an unmarried Mykonian woman and sea captain’s daughter who lived a quiet and traditional life until her passing in 1968, the house contains a collection of family heirlooms that offer an intimate portrait of middle-class lifestyle in the days before tourism.
It’s the intimacy that makes it so unique: Lena’s House feels like a moment frozen in time, where the creak of old floorboards and the embroidery laid out on the sewing machine conjure an immediate link to a forgotten way of life; old steamer trunks, battered books and paintings of merchant ships under stormy skies telling unspoken tales. You’ll only need 15 minutes, but it’s a worthwhile stop for a glimpse into the not-so-distant past.
Next door, the Aegean Maritime Museum brings the attention back to the sea, chronicling the age of merchant shipping and navigation that defined the Aegean for hundreds of years. Told through a collection of model ships, maps, navigational equipment and, in the quiet garden, a restored 1890 lighthouse, the museum preserves the legacy of an age when travel by sea was a way of life.
Evening
When the shadows begin to lengthen and the sea turns to gold, the mood calls for cold drinks and sunset views before dinner at the water’s edge. A huddle of seafood restaurants at the northern end of Akti Kampani celebrate the bounty of the Aegean and the fishing industry that has sustained communities in the region since antiquity.
Tucked into the promenade next to a bright-red 1950s fishing boat named Mathios — often draped with octopuses drying in the sun — Baboulas Ouzeri is the self-proclaimed “least gourmet restaurant on the island”, bringing together the entire story of Mykonos, its people and the sea. Founded by former -fisherman Baboulas, who works the tables with the easy charm of a lifelong storyteller, and his wife, Petroula, who runs the kitchen, the menu captures the essence of the Cyclades.
Begin, naturally, with rustic sourdough — a final nod to the old Mykonian proverb — dipped in garlicky tzatziki and feta mousse, before sharing traditional grilled octopus and black lentil salad, and mounds of fresh watermelon and feta. Fresh fish are served as you like, and classics like feta fritters and monkfish risotto are best enjoyed with a crisp glass of local assyrtiko, the ideal toast to the island and its inhabitants.
Mykonos didn’t become the island it is because of Jackie Kennedy. And its soul isn’t found in its beach clubs. Beneath this island’s gilded image lies another story, one told by sailors, millers, bakers, fishermen and the women who preserved family life since time immemorial. It belongs to generations of ordinary people who learned how to live with the sea. If you take the time to stroll through Chora slowly, their stories live on.
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